Put a jack in the wrong place and you can crush a sill, punch a hole in the sump, or drop the car. Every modern vehicle has purpose-built lift points designed to take its weight — the trick is knowing how to spot them. Here’s how to find yours before you ever need them on the roadside.

What is a jacking point?

A jacking point (or lift point) is a section of the car’s structure engineered to carry the vehicle’s weight through a single small contact area. On most cars this is the pinch weld — the seam where the two halves of the floor and sill are welded together — reinforced at four points near the wheels. Lifting anywhere else risks bending body panels or damaging expensive components.

Where are the jacking points located?

On the vast majority of passenger cars, SUVs and utes you’ll find them:

• Just behind each front wheel, on the sill/pinch weld.
• Just in front of each rear wheel, on the sill/pinch weld.

These are the points designed for the emergency scissor or bottle jack that came with the car. They sit close to the wheel you’re changing, which keeps the lift stable.

How do you identify the exact spot?

Look along the underside of the sill and you’ll usually see one of these markings:

Marking	What it looks like
Notch or cut-out	A small squared-off gap in the pinch weld the jack saddle sits into
Arrow or triangle	A moulded arrow in the plastic body cladding pointing to the point
Raised tab or rib	A short reinforced section of the weld seam
Two dimples	The correct point sits between the two marks

The factory jack has a slotted saddle that locates onto this notch. A trolley jack or jack stand should sit flat against the reinforced seam, ideally with a slotted rubber pad to protect the weld.

Why does the owner’s manual matter so much?

The single most reliable source is your owner’s manual, which shows a diagram of the exact lift points for your model — and they do vary. Some EVs and low sports cars have very specific points to avoid the battery pack or splitter; some 4WDs are jacked on the axle or chassis rail instead of a sill. If you don’t have the paper manual, most manufacturers publish a PDF online for free. This is the same manual you’ll reach for when you change a tyre on the highway.

Where should you never place a jack?

Jacking the wrong spot is how people end up with a repair bill bigger than a new tyre. Avoid:

• The flat floor pan — thin sheet metal that will dent and buckle.
• The engine sump or gearbox — cast alloy that cracks, dumping your oil.
• Plastic body cladding or bumpers — no structural strength.
• A bare sill panel away from the reinforced point — it crushes and creases.
• Suspension arms, unless the manual specifically says so.

A crushed pinch weld is a common cause of rust and long-term corrosion too, because it breaks the paint seal on the seam.

Factory jack points vs trolley jack points

The emergency jack points are for lifting one corner at a time. If you’re using a trolley jack at home to lift a whole end of the car, manufacturers often specify a central lift point — a subframe, a crossmember or a reinforced pad — before you place jack stands under the sill points. Never rely on any jack alone: once the car is up, support it on rated jack stands before you put a body part underneath it.

What should sit between the jack and the jacking point?

The pinch weld is thin steel on edge, so a bare metal jack saddle can crush or bend it. A slotted rubber jacking pad (a “hockey puck” style pad with a groove) cradles the weld and spreads the load, protecting both the seam and its paint. Many drivers keep one in the boot alongside the jack. If you don’t have a pad, at least make sure the jack saddle is seated squarely on the reinforced point and not slipping onto the flat panel beside it. Protecting that seam also helps prevent the rust that starts wherever the factory coating is cracked.

Frequently asked questions

How do I find jacking points without a manual?

Look along the sill just behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels for a notch, arrow or reinforced tab in the pinch weld. If you’re unsure, download the free PDF owner’s manual from the manufacturer’s website for your exact model and year.

Can I use the same points for a trolley jack and jack stands?

The sill pinch-weld points suit the factory jack and jack stands (use a slotted pad). For lifting a whole end with a trolley jack, check the manual for a central subframe or crossmember point, then transfer the load to stands at the sill points.

What happens if I jack in the wrong place?

You can crush the sill, dent the floor pan, crack the sump or subframe, or destabilise the car so it slips off the jack. All of these are far more expensive and dangerous than taking a minute to find the correct point.

Are EV jacking points different?

Often yes. EVs have a floor-mounted battery pack, so manufacturers specify points that avoid it entirely. Always follow the EV’s manual precisely — jacking on the battery case can cause serious damage.

Lift-point locations vary by make, model and year. Always confirm the exact points in your vehicle’s owner’s manual, and use rated jack stands for any work under the car.

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